How to achieve a wood stain finish with paint for that pottery barn wood look

I love when someone asks, ‘What did you use to stain that?’—because the answer always surprises them: it’s not stain at all! That warm, wood-like finish is actually created entirely with paint.

I wish I could take credit for this genius technique, but the inspiration came from BlackSheep House. Early on, when I was learning to paint furniture, I came across her “faux Pottery Barn” technique. It was exactly what I needed for an $80 Facebook Marketplace dresser I had planned to strip down to raw wood. But when I got started, I realized it was covered in a thick factory finish over a thin dark-grained veneer—not quite the raw wood look I had in mind.

Still, I loved the look of that Pottery Barn dresser but couldn’t swing the price while furnishing our new home. So I gave this faux wood finish a try. I’ve used it ever since—with a few tweaks of my own I’ll walk you through below.

When to Use This Faux Wood Technique

This technique is perfect when:

You want to make laminate or non-wood furniture look like real wood.
You’re working with real wood but want the look of stain with the durability of paint–ideal for outdoors because painted surfaces typically handle the elements better and don’t require the annual resealing stained wood can require.
You want a predictable finish across mixed materials.
You’re trying to save money while achieving a high-end look.

Example 1: This outdoor bench was originally wood but the sun had faded the stain. I used this technique to refinish them, and the paint holds up far better than stain to the elements.

Example 2: For our DIY mudroom lockers, we were quoted $800 for a white oak ledge—so we used paint-grade wood and created a faux oak finish for a fraction of the cost.

Example 3: In our boys’ room, we used different wood types to build their bed. I considered gel stain, but it felt too unpredictable. This method gave me consistent, beautiful results.

The Faux Stain Process (Step-by-Step)

I always begin with my standard prep and prime steps for furniture, which you can find in my free beginner’s guide to painting furniture here. Once the piece is primed, here’s how the faux stain look comes to life:

Supplies You’ll Need

Primer
Tan Base Coat Paint – I use “Rugged Tan” by Behr (indoor or outdoor depending on your project) I usually opt for satin sheen.
Rustoleum Decorative Glaze in Java Brown
Brush – For base coat if you want a wood-grain texture
Deck Stain Brush – For smooth, long grain-like strokes
Whisk Broom or Texturing Tool – Optional, adds more natural variation
Top Coat – To seal and protect your finish (indoor or outdoor depending on your project) My pick is Varathane Water Base Polyurethane in satin sheen.
Wagner Sprayer – Optional, speeds up application (especially for large pieces)

1. Base Coat

Paint the entire piece your tan base color. You can brush or spray this on.

Brush if the surface is smooth—the brush strokes mimic wood grain with texture.
Spray if the piece already has some texture—this lets the paint settle into grooves naturally.

Let the base coat dry completely.

2. Glazing

I use the Rustoleum glaze, working one section at a time.

Brush the glaze on evenly.
Then, use a deck stain brush to gently drag over the surface.
This step creates the wood grain effect! Use long, smooth strokes in the direction you want the grain to go.

If your piece has intersecting sections (like vertical and horizontal parts), do all of one direction first, let it dry, and then go back and do the other. That way, you won’t accidentally mess up your grain lines.

3. Create Realistic Grain Patterns

Some extra tools I’ve used:

A whisk broom adds more organic, imperfect grain.
The scrub brush part from an old Turtle Wax carpet cleaner can gives great texture (random but effective!).

The beauty of glaze is that it dries slowly—so if you mess up, just brush it smooth and start over.

4. Seal the Finish

Once the glaze is fully dry (I usually wait 24+ hours), seal it with your favorite topcoat. This locks in the finish and adds durability.

Color Depth Tips

For a light stain look, apply glaze lightly and wipe off excess after each deck brush stroke.
For a darker, richer wood tone, let the first coat dry and follow up with a second coat of glaze.

Time-Saving Tip

On our boys’ bed project, I discovered I could spray the glaze using my Wagner sprayer—no dilution needed! I just worked in sections so it wouldn’t dry too fast, then followed the same steps with the deck brush to create the grain lines. Huge time-saver.

Let me know below if you plan to try this technique!
It’s one of my favorite ways to get the wood look for less—and it’s perfect for giving furniture character and charm on a budget.